The policy here is to give newly planted vines six or seven years before including their fruit in village-level wines or above; this deluxe Bourgogne is a happy consequence. It’s a seamless blend of parcels from Volnay, Gevrey Evocelles, Clos de Thorey and the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits. Juicy and approachable, it’s not short of structure or complexity. Drink 2020-2024.