A ferrous, full-bodied wine that, mercifully, has nothing to do with sweet or obvious fruit. Hand picked and handled with aplomb. Aromas of blood stone, plum, varnished teak, mint and dried tobacco. A twine of tannins is firm, tremulous, authoritative and very impressive. As Italianate as it is McLaren Vale, this bodes well for the region and its courage to champion varieties that belong to the present, while portending the future.